13. August 2016

Wiener Hut – Chapeau!

by G. B.

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Im Rahmen der Ausstellung “Chapeau! Eine Sozialgeschichte des bedeckten Kopfes” zeigt das Museum Wien noch bis Oktober Kopfbedeckungen in allen erdenklichen Varianten. Die Erkenntnisse der aufwendig gestalteten Schau sind keineswegs nur modisch oder textilgeschichtlich relevant.

Die Methoden, den Kopf zu schmücken sind und waren vielfälltig und so werden nicht nur Hutkreationen, sondern auch Tücher, Kappen oder Hauben in der bis 30. Oktober laufenden Schau gezeigt. Häufig geben die gezeigten Objekte Auskunft über persönliche Vorlieben ihrer Besitzer, aber auch über deren Glauben oder gesellschaftliche Position.

Das Wien Museum hat nicht nur seine eigene Modesammlung für die Ausstellung durchforstet, sondern zeigt auch zahlreiche Exponate von Leihgebern aus aller Welt.

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Schöner Katalog!

6. August 2016

Gut gemacht – Fattobene

by G. B.

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FATTOBENE (gut gemacht) ist eine moderne Bibel für italienische Alltagsprodukte, die schon seit Generationen in der gleichen Art und Weise hergestellt werden.

Von Art Deco Seifen und barocken Kerzen über Leinengeschirrtücher bis hin zu Designobjekten aus den 60er Jahren sucht das Paar Anna Lagorio und Alex Carnevali mit viel Herzblut spezielle und einzigartige Produkte und erzählt ihre Geschichten. Eine Initiative, die – ganz im Sinne von Slow-Wear – kleinen aber herausragenden Herstellern zu mehr Aufmerksamkeit und auch zu mehr Kunden verhelfen soll. Im Webshop sind einzelne Produkte oder ein nettes Gesamtpaket direkt zu bestellen.

4. August 2016

Der Senator – dranhängen statt raushängen

by G. B.

Sommerzeit – Reisezeit. An den Flughäfen gibt es immer was zu sehen. Ganz vorne: Die deutsche Lufthansa. Denn sie hat eine besondere Spezies des Vielreisenden erfunden – den Senator. Der Senator ist viel unterwegs, sammelt Meilen, kriegt dafür Zugang zu schönen Lounges, darf an Warteschlangen vorbei zum Check-in und wird mir einer goldenen Karte ausgezeichnet, die er auch (in rotes Leder gebunden) als Gepäckanhänger erhält.

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(Weiterlesen…)

23. Juli 2016

Anton Corbijn in der der Galerie Anita Beckers

by G. B.

BW 413- Martin Gore, New York 1990 Copyright Anton Corbijn (00)

Martin Gore, New York 1990

Ab dem 27. Juli 2016 werden in der Galerie Beckers bisher in Europa nie veröffentlichte Fotoprints von Anton Corbijn aus den Jahren 1972 bis 2013 gezeigt. Im Rahmen der Ausstellung ‚#5’ sind Arbeiten aus den Werkserien 1-2-3-4 zu sehen – ausschließlich Fotos von Musikern, darunter David Bowie, Johnny Cash, Kurt Cobain, Nick Cave und Patti Smith. Durch eine Kooperation mit dem ATELIERFRANKFURT ist es er Galerie Beckers möglich, die komplette Anzahl der Fotografien zu zeigen.

BW 416 - Nick Cave, London 1996 Copyright Anton Corbijn (00)

Nick Cave, London 1996

In den vergangenen 25 Jahren hat Corbijn neben seiner Zusammenarbeit mit Musikern auch für ihn interessante Personen aus Film, Bildender Kunst, Literatur und Mode fotografiert. Neben diesem Werk führt Corbijn inzwischen erfolgreich Regie. In denletzten 10 Jahren hat er vier Spielfilme gedreht („Control“, „The American“, „A Most Wanted Man“ und „Life“).Während seiner über 40jährigen Karriere hat Corbijn neben seinem fotografischen Werk maßgeblich das Image von Bands und Musikern wie U2, Depeche Mode, Metallica, Herbert Grönemeyer, Nick Cave mitgepägt.

BW 404 - Aimee Mann, Boston 1992 Copyright Anton Corbijn (00)

Aimee Mann, Boston 1992

Zur Eröffnung am 27.07.2016 zeigt Galerie Anita Beckers den ersten Teil der Ausstellung ‚#5’ in der Braubachstraße 9. Nach drei Wochen, ab dem 16.08.2016, wechselt die Präsentation im ATELIERFRANKFURT mit dem in der Galerie in der Braubachstraße gezeigten Teil.

 

Eröffnung: Mittwoch. 27. Juli 2016, 19.30 – 21.30 Uhr

Standort 1:    Galerie Beckers/Landau. Braubachstraße 9, 60311 Frankfurt

Standort 2:  ATELIERFRANKFURT Schwedlerstraße 1 – 5, 60314 Frankfurt

Ausstellungsdauer: 28. Juli – 3. September 2016

Öffnungszeiten: Di. – Fr. 11 – 18 Uhr Sa. von 12 – 17 Uhr (nur Galerie Beckers) und nach Vereinbarung

Filmscreening im ATELIERFRANKFURT

24.08.2016 um 20 Uhr CONTROL

26.08.2016 um 20 Uhr LIFE

 

18. Juli 2016

Interview with Carmen and Roberta of Camiceria Carmen

by G. B.

Camiceria Carmen

Wir haben in Turin Camiceria Carmen besucht. Hier fertigen Mutter Carmen und Tochter Roberta in Handarbeit seit vielen Jahren Maßhemden. Ohne großes Napoli-Gedöns und dafür mit verläßlicher Lieferzeit enstehen in der Camiceria Carmen feine Hemden zu Preisen ab 180 Euro.

For those readers who aren’t familiar with Camiceria Carmen, please can you tell us about the company?

We are an historic Italian shirt factory whose name comes from the owner Carmen,  who had her first experience in a workshop at the age of 14 and started her own business in 1975. This experience and continuity are strengthen by the support of her daughter Roberta who was able to capitalize the knowledge acquired at the School of Art, Fashion and Costume within the shirt factory Thus in Turin, in the heart of the city, Carmen has become a benchmark for quality and refined elegance for those who want tailored shirts.In fact Camiceria doesn’t have shirts already made but only a broad choice of over 150 among of the best fabrics on the market. Our bespoke shirts are thought and designed according to the desire of the client and they are personally created by Carmen and her daughter Roberta in the workshop attached to the shop.

What makes a bespoke shirt so special?

Time and patience. At a moment when the processing time doesn’t have importance because of a too fast economy and the need of big productions, our made-to-measure shirts workshop is timeless. We take our time to work properly, to check every article of clothing and to leave nothing to chance. We take the time that only the handmade process needs, in order to give the attention and the exclusivity that our client deserves.

What elements of the Carmen-shirt are bespoke – is it just the fit, choice of fabric and sleeve length that are bespoke, or does the customer have the ability to choose a specific collar shape, cuff style etc?

We personally draw, cut and sew, each single part of the shirt. From the collar to the body, from the cuffs to the placket, every little detail can be customized.

Is there a particular cut or style that Camiceria Carmen is noted for?

When working on bespoke, your style must be the one your customer wants. The ability to understand his needs or to give him the best advice, makes our style flexible, and adaptable. The style we can talk about, regardless of cut and shape, is rather in our working process and the care for details. We have been working the same way for 50 years, 50 years of experience and dedication. All fabrics are decatized (washed) and ironed before any other operations in order to give stability to the fabric, the collar and the cuffs. The Client’s measures are taken directly by the owner, Carmen, or by her daughter Roberta. Afterwards they will create the paper pattern on the needs of the client.The different parts of the shirt pattern are exclusively hand-cut. The sewings are made with a pure cotton thread, 10 points per centimeter and blind-stitchings. The collar and the cuffs are made of pure cotton cloth, sewed and non-adhesive, Following the old tradition, in order to avoid gatherings and ungluings. The armhole is sewed offset from the shirt side seam in order to Obtain a better wearability. The buttons are made of the best Australian mother-of-pearl and they are Exclusively hand-sewn.On Client’s demand the shirt can be embellished by hand-sewn monograms, Buttonholes and finishes. In the end, we can say that ours is an elegant and high-class style.

Where are your customers from?

Many customers are from the most important Turin families and from Italy in general, but we also have customers from all around the world. From the United States to the United Kingdom, from Denmark to Switzerland, to Germany.The word-of-mouth has always been our best advertisement.

How important is the quality of cloth that you use and do you have any favoured choice of fabrics?

We have always wanted to have in our store an extremely wide choice of fabrics of the piece, to allow the customer see and touch them, because the quality of a fabric is absolutely critical. We could almost say it’s everything in a shirt! You can work and better wear a high-quality fabric, it lasts longer and it doesn’t lose its beauty. You can recognize a good fabric, you can see it before you even touching it. For those who wear it’s an sort of business card.So we’ve always chosen only double or triple twisted tissues in order to be able to give the customer only a high-quality choice.

Do you feel men today still have an appreciation for traditional tailoring as in previous generations?

We think that today there is a return to the traditional tailoring, especially from the new generations. There are two main reasons: the first one is the low quality of clothes, too often made in countries where there is no care for details and fabrics; the second one is the standardization of clothing that flatten the supply on the market. The fashion sector has imposed rules from which it’s difficult to be free, that’s why those who try to distinguish themselves decide to work with artisans.

Moreover the advent of the internet has allowed people to be well informed on the topic. That has created a very exigent category of new costumers, eager to learn and experiment. Sometimes they are competent, sometimes they think to be at our same level because of the things read on the internet.Despite all this, the web is giving us the opportunity to do always better and to make the traditional tailoring grow. (Weiterlesen…)

5. Juli 2016

Sartoria Tofani – an Interview with Aristide Tofani

by G. B.

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Where did the story of Tofani start? 

Sartoria Tofani was founded by my grandfather Aristide Tofani in the hearth of the historical neighborough of Naples, in 1954. He started apprendicing at Vincenzo Attolini’s, whose name is a guarantee and who represented a crucial figure in his path. Thanks to his inclination to perfection he suddenly became a  known and respected name.His main accomplishment was transmitting his passion to my father to my uncle and then to me.

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What is your background and how did you get into this business or what/who was your inspiration for starting it?

I’m born in a true craftsman family, my grandfather was a master tailor as my dad and my uncle, I always looked at the bespoke world and always had an huge interest for my family business, I still remember when i was 12 and I used to visit our tailoring everyday to “play” with fabrics, needles and sewing machines. So as soon as I ended my studies, i started to work in our family tailoring and I hope to keep alive our family tradition and to become a master as my grandfather and my dad. I also want to keep our tailoring as it has always been, a small family business, I don’t want to fall in industrialization, I just want to share our work with the world trough social media and social marketing.

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You are the third generation and still very young. Do you think bespoke tailoring is now appealing to a new generation?

I think that bespoke tailoring will never die, even if these are hard times for tailorings, young people like me don’t want to learn a craftsman job anymore because it needs years and years of hard work, and you need a big passion to pass trough all the learning difficulties.

Who or what is your biggest influence in tailoring?

My biggest influences in tailoring and in life are my grandfather and my father. They both followed their passion, and they both transmitted their passion to their sons. My grandfather was the first of 8 sons, they were really poor and he had to work 12h a day at Vincenzo Attolini’s tailoring when he was only 11 to maintain his family. He passed trough a lot of difficulties but he managed to become a really good and respected master tailor.Thanks to his sacrifices I can afford to focus 100% on learning this wonderfull job.

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What has been the most satisfying moment as a business so far and why? 

I had a lot of satisfying moments during these years, when you love what you do, every kind of compliment can make you really happy and satisfied. The best moments have been the “business trips” with my father, father and son traveling the world to reach their customers and to spread their art worldwide.

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Describe your typical client for us.

Our typical customer is, first and foremost, a real gentleman. He is a man with a discerning taste for well-made bespoke garments. But of course, most of our customers are avid lovers of the real Neapolitan ‚light‘ tailoring, which through generations and time, has been maintained and never changed.

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What happens after a client steps through your door – tell us about the process of creating the perfect suit for them.

The process of creating the perfect suit for a customer is different for every customer, we like to accomplish their desires at our best. Everything starts with a good talk and a good while the customer can have a look at our fabrics, we have bunches of the best companies in the world: Harrison of Edinburgh – W.Bill – Fox Brothers – Loro Piana – Caccioppoli – Vitale Barbers Canonico – Holland & Sherry – Scabal and more. Then it’s time to take the measures of the body so we can organize a first fitting of the garments in a few days.

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How can customer’s best access your services?

Customers can visit our tailoring everyday of the year, they can take an appointment trough our telephone numbers, our emails and on any kind of social network, Facebook – Facebook page – WhatsApp – Instagram – Tumblr, we usually answer in less than 1 hour.

These are our contacts:

Davide ( only italian ): +39 3683413320

Aristide ( italian – english ): +39 3294546931

Email: sartoriatofani@gmail.com

What is the Tofani jacket/suit like?

Our jackets or suits follow the traditions of the true Neapolitan-styled garments. All our garments we make right here at this ’sartoria‘ and by hand; nothing is outsourced. The typical Tofani jacket is really soft and light, and it „wraps“ around the contours of the body like a shirt or cardigan. It also has the typical elements of a true Neapolitan jacket, like the „manica a camicia“ which is recognisable at the sleeve-head. This a unique style which is the result of lots of knowledge, experience and secret passed down from Vincenzo Attolini to my grandfather, then to my father.

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What are you favourite fabrics?

I personally like a lot of kind of fabrics, I really love squares patterns, heavy english flannels and mohairs.

You started recently a tie-edition. What is your aim?

With this limited edition I’m trying to bring back the exclusivity of the luxury fashion making high quality ties that are owned only by a little group of people. The ties collections are limited edition, there will be only 20 pieces for every edition and there will never be re-editions.

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What are your favorite places in Naples?

There are a lot of beautiful places in Naples and it’s hard to chose a favorite one. I think that one of the best place to visit is the Castel sant’Elmo, if you reach the roof you will have a 360° view of Naples and during good days you will be able to see Capri.

 

 

2. Juli 2016

Perlmuttknöpfe made in Austria

by G. B.


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Seit 1911 beschäftigt sich das österreichische Unternehmen RM Austria–Perlmuttdesign mit der Verarbeitung von Muscheln. Heute ist die Firma die letzte Perlmuttdrechslerei der Alpenrepublik. Rund acht Mitarbeiter verarbeiten pro Jahr etwa 20 Tonnen Muscheln. Daraus entstehen mit viel Handarbeit immer noch überwiegend Knöpfe (etwa 2,5 Millionen Stück pro Jahr) die hauptsächlich von nationalen und internationalen Trachtenmoden- und Strickwarenfirmen, aber auch von Maßhemdenherstellern (wie beispielsweise Gino Veturini aus Wien) eingekauft werden. Seit einigen Jahren produziert das Unternehmen im niederösterreichischen Felling auch Schmuck, Zier- und Gebrauchsgegenstände aus Perlmut, und hat sich so ein zusätzliches wirtschaftliches Standbein geschaffen.

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Gegründet 1911 von Rudolf Marchart in Felling, verarbeitete das kleine Unternehmen ursprünglich Perlmutt von Muscheln aus Thaya und March. Mittlerweile kommt das Rohmaterial aus Indonesien, Japan, Mexiko, Neuseeland und Australien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab es in Österreich immer noch 98 solcher Handwerksbetriebe. Die beginnende Fertigung von Knöpfen aus Kunststoff ließ die Zahl von Perlmuttdrechslereien rapide sinken.

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Die Knopfherstellung funktioniert so: Zuerst werden die Muscheln sortiert und in Qualitätsklassen eingeteilt. Kleine Scheiben in Knopfgröße bohrt man aus den Muscheln mit einem Diamantstahlbohrer. Nach der Reinigung gehen die kleinen Muschel-scheiben durch die Stärkesortiermaschine. Die dicken Stücke werden händisch mit einem Meisel gespalten, die anderen mittels einer Maschine. Danach wird mit dem Diamantwerkzeug die Fasson gemacht und der Knopf gelocht. Die gelochten und fassionierten Knöpfe kommen nun in eine mit Wasser und Bimsmehl gefüllte Trommel, damit sie sich abschleifen und glatt werden. Die Knöpfe kommen anschließend noch zwölf Stunden lang in eine mit winzigen Holzwürfeln und Polierpaste gefüllte Poliertrommel, bevor dann schöne schimmernde Knöpfe in erstklassiger Qualität das Licht erblicken.

27. Juni 2016

멋진 한국신사의 감각 – Interview with Hun Lee Founder of Il gusto del signore

by G. B.

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Hun Lee betreibt in Seoul den schönen Blog „Il gusto del signore“ oder   멋진 한국신사의 감각 wir haben ihn getroffen und ihm ein paar Fragen gestellt.

Tell us about you personal background

I graduated from FIT(Fashion Institute of Technology of State University of New York) majored in Fashion merchandising management. After school I came back to Korea, started my work as PR professional. Several years later, I decided to do my own job. And that was a fashion related one. I started my blog in Korean. Soon it became very popular, and I realized the lack of menswear related information for the Korean market. I decided to be a person to provide the information for men to develop their taste in a more sophisticated way. Now my blog has more than 6 million accmulated visitors, every day around 1000 people. As an author I published two books about mens wear. And supported two additional books as translator. I am also working as an Ambassador of Vitale Barberis Canonico for the Korean Market.

Korea is so far not known as the sartorial heart off the world, how did you start your journey into clothing?

I was always a garments lover, had never worn what mom’s buy for me, loved vintage, old style clothings.

When have you decided to become a fashion blogger?

That was about 10 years ago….

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Have you always been interested in mens style?

Yes, because I am a man.

What is the meaning of style for you?

Life, breathing, living, communicating, behaving, what I most love, and my forever love.

How has your blog evolved?

It grows like a weeds after the rain.

You started design-collaborations with some selected partners. Tell us more, please.

I have been always interested in designing and like to share my taste with someone off similier taste. Now I work with some Korean brands like Mannequin, Mementomoriand Jeff. The collaborations compris mostly mens accessories like leather goods and ties.

And you wrote a book. Enlighten us about the idea and the topics in your writing .

As I mentioned, Korean people have a lack of information about styling. The first book was about around 60 garments I own. Telling about where this pattern comes from, why people started wear it. Why I choose it. How to wear it. What is the origin of this fabric. Who can make this the best. What is the standard to chose specific items.The Second book based on my column in Koreas number one newspaper in the last two years. And I added some nice photos I took visiting Pitti during last 10 years. It is very smple and easy content.

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How ist Korea in terms of mens wear, there seems to be a high interesst in european style and also a very long tradtion of craftmanship.

I say yes. We had a very long tradition with our royal families. And were well known for some craftmanships. Due to those reasons, we have an eye on beauty. During the colonial period, the Korean war and while being mordernized we lost a lot of traditional skills and beautiful things. Now to learn form Europe and to build up our own style is natural step, I guess.

Your favourite makers?

Many. In terms of „ready to wear“ I love Camoshita, Stile Latino, Gabo Napoli, Mario Muscariello, Emmeti, Drew and Co and so on…..

And the favourite tailors?

Now my favourite is Sartoria Ciccio. And I like Sartoria Ciardi, Sartoria Formosa, Sartoria Jun (Korean). I am dreaming about a pair of suits from the Cesare Attolini by Cesare himself. And a suit form Antonio Panico. Also, I’m very curious about Sartoria Chiaia.

And Shirts?

I usually wear Korean local shirts makers. Goshe and Steady State are best two. Mario Muscariello and Maria Santangello are my favorite two form Napoli.

And trousers?

I used to wear Ambrosi Napoli, but stopped with some reason. Recently finding the alternatives.

We met in a train after attending the Pitti while you where further travelling Italy. What do you like – beside mens wear – about our italian friends?

Italia is my second home country. Italian‘s love, passion, affection, betray, kindness, and everything….. I simply love.

Please give us a Tip for a good place to eat in Seoul

Many!!!! Can not tell just one or two. If curious? Be my sincere friend. Will take you there.

 

 

 

 

21. Juni 2016

SELECTED BY SEBASTIAN KAUFMANN

by G. B.

Mit der Ausstellung SELECTED BY hat die Galerie Frank Landau im Juni eine neue Ausstellungsreihe in Frankfurt begonnen.

Ausgewählte Persönlichkeiten mit sehr unterschiedlichem Hintergrund wirken als Kuratoren, selektieren aus der Sammlung Frank Landaus Objekte jeglicher Art und kreieren somit ihre eigene Ausstellung.

Den neu ernannten Kuratoren ist die Inspiration dazu frei überlassen, so entsteht ein höchst abwechslungsreicher und ungewohnter Blick auf Kunst und Design, der gleichzeitig auch einen interessanten Dialog zwischen unterschiedlichen „Welten“ ermöglicht.

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Sebastian Kaufmann, Gründer des New Yorker Start-ups Kaufmann Mercantile gestaltet den Auftakt der neuen Ausstellungsreihe SELECTED BY mit Werken von Paavo Tynell, Tapio Wirkkala, Edward Wormley, Ettore Sottsass, Charles & Ray Eames, Charlotte Perriand, Preben Dahl, Atelier Johannes Hock, Hans Wegner.

Ausstellungsdauer: 09. Juni – 23. Juli 2016, Braubachstraße 9, 60311 Frankfurt

 

16. Juni 2016

An Interview with Torsten Grunwald

by G. B.

Torsten-Grunwald-Stiljournalen

Torsten, how did you make your way into mens style?

My interest in classic style menswear began in high school, partly because I’m tall. That makes it deficult to find well-fitting items off-the-rack. The world of the suit is more flexible in regards to body shapes than fast fashion.

You also run „Grunwald“ a Webshop specialized in handpicked items from some of the leading makers in Europe. What was you motivation to enter the retail-business?

To make a buck and to learn about running a webstore. Moreover, I enjoy providing tools to men, who care about style. Especially I like selling vintage cloth for bespoke orders at the tailor.

Talking about personal style. What do you consider as style and what are your suggestions for a mens wardrobe?

From a methodological point of view, I think great style comes from mastering six dimensions: Cut, colours, patterns, textures, occasion and personality. You should start with occasision and personality, when building a wardrobe. You have to consider down-to-earth what fits your way of living, and whats makes you feel comfortable.

What do you think about dresscodes? Still helpfull or needless?

Unwritten dresscodes are still very much alive. Today they point to more informal clothes. Personally, I don’t like to obsess about dresscodes. Great style style doesn’t come from reproducing dresscodes but rather from the six dimensions I spoke about above.

Are there golden rules?

Following rules means you leave yourself behind. It doesn’t work, if you want to dress really well. I like idiosyncrasies more than rules.
Idiosyncrasies can be a pillar of style.

Do you have contemporary archetypes of style?

I have readers, who in my mind dress with style, for instance Jeppe and Mads. I also think that Lino Ieluzzi and Luca Rubinacci master the art of dressing with style. Personally, I would not dress like Lino or Luca. I dress more conventionally. Yet, you have give our Italian friends that they have a feel for clothing.

When it comes to bespoke tailoring there is always much noise about Naples and London. Let us know about the tailors and other makers in Denmark.

The sartorial situation in Denmark is not encouraging, unfortunately. We have two or three bespoke tailors, who can make a fine suit, but the result cannot equal top tailoring from England, France, Italy, Spain or Germany. In regards to crafts the strongest tradition in Denmark is pipe making. We have some of the world’s very best pipe makers. The leather craft is also interesting. There are some skilled makers around.  

Compared to other european countries: Is there a difference in the way men in Denmark dress?

Denmark is known to be an informal and not very hierarchical country. That is a virtue in many ways. Sadly, such a culture doens’t produce many well dressed men, if you like the art of the suit.

The small specialized tailors, shirtmakers and shoemakers seem to vanish. So called Luxury-Brands dominate the scene. Is your shop a contribution to keep those small makers visible?

I hope so.

Who are your favourite makers ?

I’m afraid I cannot designate a favourite maker. My experience is that my opinios change over time. However, I would like to mention the makers that I’ve tried in Germany: bespoke tailor Volkmar Arnulf in Potsdam and bespoke shoemaker Benjamin Klemann in Hamburg. German craftsmen don’t get much press compared to Italian, English and now also French and Spanisk makers. Weird, because craftsmen like Arnulf and Klemann are world-class, I can assure you that.

More:

http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/

http://grunwald-true-style.com

 

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